Thursday I woke up on the train to a sunny sky outside and rolling hills gradually turning into city. We were arriving in Chiang Mai, the north of Thailand. Fletch and I had just crossed the entire country, from south to north, by train. I had wondered if it would be cold up north. It wasn't. As we carried our backpacks off the train the air was still as hot and humid as it had been in Koh Tao. Yet it was different somehow. There were a number of red, covered, open-backed trucks lined up outside the train station waiting to transport people