It is a well known fact amongst travelers that if you have to get stuck at an airport for a long layover, Singapore’s Chengi Airport is exactly the airport you hope to get stuck at. With two movie theaters, a butterfly garden, a cactus garden, a sunflower garden, a 4-story slide, a swimming pool with a bar, an hourly-rate hotel, and massage chairs galore, you couldn’t really ask for a more suitable place to have to spend a few hours. With all of that, did they really need more? Apparently they did, because a massive new shopping center, Jewel Changi Airport, was recently completed with the world’s largest indoor waterfall at its center, the Rain Vortex. 

The concept art alone was enough to ooh and aah. But what was the point? Fletch and I discussed before my departure that people were going to go to the airport regardless. They didn’t really need a reason to attract people there. And if they did, Singapore is already at the top of the list as far as best airports goes. Why do you need more when you’re already the best? 

My sister’s boyfriend said it was for the “flex” and I’m probably using that word entirely wrong, because I don’t keep up with the latest slang. You know you’re getting old when language starts sounding unfamiliar. And a fancy linguistics degree doesn’t exactly plant an ever-updating dictionary in your brain (although that would be a cool trick). 

I landed in Singapore aching, bloated, and exhausted. My plan had been to find a bus straight away to Kuala Lumpur, but that would be another seven or eight hours of travel, which doesn’t sound all that appealing after sitting in a middle economy seat for 17 hours. Maybe I should just rest here for a night. I couldn’t think straight. After exchanging some money to Malaysia’s currency, I approached an information desk. The sensible questions to ask would have been, Where is the nearest hotel? or How do I get to the bus station? But instead, the words that came out of my mouth were, “Where’s the waterfall?” Priorities…

The gentleman pointed to my right, and up the escalators. I had expected more in-depth directions than that. Surely the world’s largest indoor waterfall wasn’t just a simple walk upstairs. 

It wasn’t. But large, fool-proof signs pointing towards ‘Jewel’ outlined the rest of the route. I figured Jewel had to be the waterfall.

The path led through an impressive skybridge, at the end of which a shiny building shaped like a giant, glass donut, or a vortex could be seen. That looked like the kind of place that would house a futuristic indoor waterfall. I was on the right track. 

I had expected to pay an entrance fee, but it was absolutely free. I was able to waltz right in. The massive area with terraced trees extending up four stories on all sides looked familiar from the pictures, but there was no waterfall. I saw the vortex in the roof where the water should have been falling from, but it was completely dry. 

Down below, a pool of water seemed to be rushing downwards to the lower levels, so I went to investigate. The first of several basement levels offered a handful of restaurants, all closed at the early hour, circling around the waterfall centerpiece. I had read that the waterfall utilized recycled rain, and so wondered if there hadn’t been enough rain recently for the waterfall to operate in full. 

Heading back up the escalator, I saw that water was now pouring 40 meters down from the ceiling. I ran over to get a closer look, certain that it might stop again just as quickly, but it didn’t. 

What a beautiful sight after 17 hours of sitting in a tin can. The trees making up the border of the area provided the loveliest aromas. Classy orchestral arrangements of Christmas songs were playing at an uplifting volume. My dehydrated raisin of a body immediately felt like one of those sponge toys that expand when you soak them in water. It was instant refreshment and rejuvenation. I mentally took back every snide comment on the purpose of a waterfall inside an airport. This was a glorious concept. This was using nature as medicine, to wash away the travel ick, without having to actually go anywhere to find nature. No, Singapore brilliantly brought the nature to the airport, for travelers from all over the globe to be able to bask in. There were no grouchy travelers here, demanding refunds for their delayed flights, just happy, carefree smiles all around. The setting was every bit as utopic as the concept art had promised it would be. 

Seamlessly woven between the forests of trees were concrete stadium benches to sit on and enjoy the view, and that’s exactly what I did. I sat and soaked it all in. Then used the free wifi to book an Airbnb 350 km away. Perhaps the Rain Vortex had a downside for Singapore after all. Instead of convincing me to spend a night in the city, it refreshed me enough to press onwards. I probably sat there for an hour it was such a pleasant experience, but eventually decided that making it to Kuala Lumpur and been my original plan, and I would stick to it. If I left now, I might even make it before dark. 

To be continued…